There may be a little quick discomfort, but most pets show no reaction when the microchip is fitted. Your vet will be experienced implanting microchips as painlessly as possible.

Generally a cat or dog will not need sedating as the process is very quick and relatively painless. Sedation may be necessary in some unusual species or anxious animals or pets, therefore please check with your vet.

The chip will last the lifetime of your pet. So once it’s done, that’s it for life!

There’s a one-off payment which you make to your vet when the chip is implanted – this includes the cost of your details being stored on the PETtrac database for life. However, a small charge will be made if you need to update your details.

Call PETtrac on 01273 408721 for more information

The microchip is only activated when a scanner is passed over it, otherwise the chip is completely inert. When a scanner passes, the chip emits electromagnetic waves, causing it to transmit a unique radio signal back to the scanner.  It’s very quick, and completely harmless to your pet. If your pet is lost, the person scanning the chip can read your pet’s unique identity code and use this to trace their owner (you) – by referring to the database.

It’s very unusual to have a chip removed, and hardly ever necessary – but it can be done with the appropriate anaesthetic and surgery.

The chip should not fall out when implanted. However, it’s absolutely essential that you DO NOT rub or prod the area where the chip has been inserted for AT LEAST 24 hours, or you could risk it becoming dislodged or expelled.

The microchip is enclosed in a special bio-compatible casing to help prevent it from moving around.  On very rare occasions, it can be dislodged and move under the skin a little.  This should not discourage you from having a chip implanted; if the chip cannot be located at the place of implantation, the whole animal will then be checked.

Identity microchips are now widely used by vets to establish animal identity, and are a legal requirement when a dog, cat or ferret is travelling abroad, so most animal-related agencies will have a scanner.

The Horse Passport Regulations 2004 states that all horse owners are to obtain a passport for each horse they own.  Horses without a passport cannot be bought, sold, exported, used for breeding or competition, or be slaughtered for human consumption.

Every horse must have its own individual passport. To obtain one you must complete an application to one of the Passport Issuing Organisations (PIO’s) that have been authorised by Defra or the devolved administrations (Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales). Helpful information can be found at: www.horse-passport.gov.uk or from the Defra helpline on 03459 335577.

No, the microchip will not track the location or whereabouts of your pet. The microchip has been designed for the purposes of identification in the event of the pet going missing so that the reunification process can take place.

Whilst the microchip may work with some microchip operated cat flaps, the purpose of the microchip is for identification and reunification of the pet with its owner.

Urinary issues are a serious matter that create major discomfort for cats and can become a vital emergency. You might notice some of the following symptoms when your cat has urinary problem:

• Frequent urination or trips to the litter box, but only passing a small amount of urine 

• Urinating outside the litter box 

• Blood in the urine 

• Straining to urinate 

• Crying out in pain while urinating 

• Increased licking of urinary opening

Once diagnosed, in 1 out of 2 cases, the trouble will reappear within the year. Cystitis and stones are the most common urinary issues.

Any change in your pet's diet should not be taken lightly. It is essential to gradually introduce the new diet to the old diet, over a period of at least 7 days, which can be extended to 3 weeks for large breed dogs in particular.

It is therefore important not only to offer them food adapted to their needs but also to give them time to adapt gradually. Temporary digestive problems that may be observed during this transition phase are completely normal, as the animal's digestive system gets used to the new diet.

A good nutrition can make all the difference for your cat’s urinary health.

If urinary issues are diagnosed in your cat, your veterinarian can recommend a specific diet in order to dissolve the crystals or stones. The diet can even prevent the formation of new stones/crystals and manage inflammation of the bladder. This diet should include a high amount of animal protein, which will stabilise urine pH and promote water intake. It should also be formulated to avoid weight gain. 

Our VETERINARY HPM^® Urology cat products are specifically designed to manage urinary issues in cats with its four diets.

Our new wet diets are complete diets. You can use them to feed your cat 100%, and their nutritional needs will be perfectly covered. This can be recommended for cats with urinary disease: if you are unsure, ask your vet.

You can also combine our wet diets with our VETERINARY HPM^® kibbles. This way you will provide your cat with a high quality VETERINARY HPM^® mixed nutrition programme.

• Insufficient water intake: cats by nature drink very little which leads to a very concentrated urine.

• Stress and overweight, sedentary lifestyles and neutering are common risk factors. The risk is 2.5 to 7 times higher in neutered cats.

• Inappropriate or low quality food with excessive or unbalanced amounts of minerals.

The first few months after sterilisation are the most important and your vigilance should be high.

Encourage your cat to exercise! Don't overfeed your cat and stick to the recommended daily rations. Weigh your cat regularly and consult your veterinarian if you notice any weight gain.

Cats are very sensitive to their environment. In addition to a nutrition adapted to your cat, there are several things you can do at home to support your cat’s urinary health.

	Fresh water in adapted bowls Provide your cat with regularly renewed fresh water Use a porcelain bowl or a fountain. Avoid plastic bowls which can give a bad odour to the water Provide your cat with several sources of water in your house
	Take care of the litter box Regulary change the litter box and if possible make several litter boxes available through the house Recommended number of litter boxes = number of cats living at home +1 Keep the litter box in a quiet place
	Avoid stress and boredom Make sure your cat has hiding places and a private place to themselves Arrange places where your cat can hide and others where they can perch Enrich their environment with toys, games, cat trees that stimulate them
	Take care of bodyweight Weigh your cat once a month Respect the feeding quantities indicated on the bag, or recommended by your veterinarian Limit treats and snacks

To adjust to your cat's new needs, caloric intake should come primarily from protein; fat and carbohydrate intake should be controlled to provide less energy.

Protein is essential to help maintain muscle mass in place of fat mass. Protein also promotes satiety in combination with dietary fibre. This is especially important after neutering, when your cat's appetite increases. On the other hand, starch and sugars should be limited because they are a less useful source of energy for strict carnivores like your cat, and could be stored as fat if fed in excess.